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Análise robusta ao universo de moda de noiva sustentável em Portugal : o vestido de noiva
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Abstract(s)
A dimensão sentimental e afetiva do vestido de noiva, associada a cânones sociais, assume proporções extraordinárias, parecendo ultrapassar a razoabilidade, sobretudo atendendo ao facto de, maioritariamente, o traje ser concebido para utilização única. A indústria da moda, na qual se insere o ramo bridalwear, impacta negativamente o ambiente, pela ininterrupta exploração de recursos e pelo consumo desenfreado de vestuário. Porém, parece poder afirmar-se que esta problemática ainda não está no centro das atenções da moda de noiva nacional, sendo que a sustentabilidade associada a este ramo se encontra numa fase muito embrionária. Esta tese propõe compreender o papel da sustentabilidade na moda bridalwear portuguesa e como os diversos intervenientes estão sensíveis a esta questão, particularmente a noiva, para quem o traje nupcial parece ser um ícone da moda e um talismã cultural que está no centro de uma das cerimónias mais valorizadas na cultura ocidental. A versatilidade, o design modular, o upcycling, o aluguer e o uso em segunda mão são práticas apontadas, por diversos autores, como promotoras da sustentabilidade no setor da moda, sendo importante perceber a aplicabilidade e relevância no ramo bridalwear. Entender esta dinâmica requer analisar o fenómeno de diversas perspetivas: as preferências das consumidoras portuguesas, a oferta do mercado nacional e a relação de ambos com a sustentabilidade. As principais tendências de moda de noiva em Portugal abrangem a personalização e os trajes versáteis ou modulares, verificando-se uma proliferação dos ateliers custom-made, que contrariam a massificação e despersonalização mais características da moda de noiva disponível nas lojas multimarcas e de pronto-a-vestir. Estudos confirmam que, atualmente, o consumidor está mais sensível ao tópico da sustentabilidade e a optar por marcas mais amigas do ambiente, mas será que o comportamento das noivas portuguesas revela esta preocupação, e estarão os ateliers portugueses alinhados com os princípios sustentáveis? Para dar resposta às questões levantadas foram efetuadas entrevistas a sete ateliers de bridalwear portugueses, antecedidas por uma desk research e análise etnográfica ao setor da moda sustentável, com particular enfoque no ramo da moda de noiva. O desenvolvimento deste estudo permitiu concluir que o traje nupcial é extremamente valorizado pelas noivas portuguesas, que recorrem a ateliers custom-made para ter um modelo único. As entrevistas possibilitaram apreender uma diversidade de comportamentos e preferências das noivas portuguesas, destacando-se um aspeto muito relevante: num primeiro contacto com o atelier, a noiva raramente revela qualquer vontade em ter um vestido sustentável. Esta constatação contraria a publicidade veiculada pelos media portugueses referente ao crescimento dos casamentos sustentáveis, pelo menos no que respeita ao vestido de noiva. Verifica-se uma tendência crescente pela procura de vestidos versáteis que, para muitas noivas tem como finalidade principal a exibição de diferentes visuais durante o dia de casamento e para outras tem como objetivo o uso de peças constituintes do modelo em situações futuras. Globalmente, concluiu-se que os comportamentos adotados ainda não contribuem significativamente para a sustentabilidade da moda de noiva em Portugal.
The sentimental and emotional dimension of the wedding dress, associated with social canons, takes on extraordinary proportions, seeming to go beyond reason, especially given the fact that, for the most part, the garment is designed for single use. The fashion industry, of which bridalwear is a part, has a negative impact on the environment through the uninterrupted exploitation of resources and the unbridled consumption of clothing. However, it seems that this issue is not yet at the forefront of national bridal fashion, and the sustainability associated with this industry is at a very early stage. This thesis aims to understand the role of sustainability in Portuguese bridalwear and how the various players are sensitive to this issue, particularly the bride, for whom the bridal outfit seems to be a fashion icon and a cultural talisman that is at the center of one of the most valued ceremonies in Western culture. Versatility, modular design, upcycling, renting and second-hand use are practices pointed out by various authors as promoting sustainability in the fashion sector, and it is important to understand their applicability and relevance in bridalwear. Understanding this dynamic requires analyzing the phenomenon from different perspectives: the preferences of Portuguese consumers, the supply of the national market and the relationship between the two and sustainability. The main trends in bridal fashion in Portugal include personalization and versatile or modular outfits, with a proliferation of custom-made ateliers, which counter the massification and depersonalization more characteristic of bridal fashion available in multi-brand and ready-to-wear stores. Studies confirm that consumers are now more sensitive to the topic of sustainability and are opting for more environmentally friendly brands, but does the behavior of Portuguese brides reveal this concern, and are Portuguese ateliers aligned with sustainable principles? To answer the questions raised, interviews were carried out with seven Portuguese bridalwear designers, preceded by desk research and ethnographic analysis of the sustainable fashion sector, with a particular focus on bridal fashion. The development of this study led to the conclusion that bridal attire is highly valued by Portuguese brides, who turn to custom-made ateliers to have a unique model. The interviews made it possible to understand a variety of behaviors and preferences of Portuguese brides, with one very important aspect standing out: on first contact with the atelier, the bride rarely reveals any desire to have a sustainable dress. This contradicts the publicity in the Portuguese media about the growth of sustainable weddings, at least when it comes to wedding dresses. There is a growing tendency to look for versatile dresses, the main purpose of which for many brides is to show off different looks during the wedding day, while for others the aim is to use pieces of the model in future situations. Overall, it was concluded that the behaviors adopted do not yet contribute significantly to the sustainability of bridal fashion in Portugal.
The sentimental and emotional dimension of the wedding dress, associated with social canons, takes on extraordinary proportions, seeming to go beyond reason, especially given the fact that, for the most part, the garment is designed for single use. The fashion industry, of which bridalwear is a part, has a negative impact on the environment through the uninterrupted exploitation of resources and the unbridled consumption of clothing. However, it seems that this issue is not yet at the forefront of national bridal fashion, and the sustainability associated with this industry is at a very early stage. This thesis aims to understand the role of sustainability in Portuguese bridalwear and how the various players are sensitive to this issue, particularly the bride, for whom the bridal outfit seems to be a fashion icon and a cultural talisman that is at the center of one of the most valued ceremonies in Western culture. Versatility, modular design, upcycling, renting and second-hand use are practices pointed out by various authors as promoting sustainability in the fashion sector, and it is important to understand their applicability and relevance in bridalwear. Understanding this dynamic requires analyzing the phenomenon from different perspectives: the preferences of Portuguese consumers, the supply of the national market and the relationship between the two and sustainability. The main trends in bridal fashion in Portugal include personalization and versatile or modular outfits, with a proliferation of custom-made ateliers, which counter the massification and depersonalization more characteristic of bridal fashion available in multi-brand and ready-to-wear stores. Studies confirm that consumers are now more sensitive to the topic of sustainability and are opting for more environmentally friendly brands, but does the behavior of Portuguese brides reveal this concern, and are Portuguese ateliers aligned with sustainable principles? To answer the questions raised, interviews were carried out with seven Portuguese bridalwear designers, preceded by desk research and ethnographic analysis of the sustainable fashion sector, with a particular focus on bridal fashion. The development of this study led to the conclusion that bridal attire is highly valued by Portuguese brides, who turn to custom-made ateliers to have a unique model. The interviews made it possible to understand a variety of behaviors and preferences of Portuguese brides, with one very important aspect standing out: on first contact with the atelier, the bride rarely reveals any desire to have a sustainable dress. This contradicts the publicity in the Portuguese media about the growth of sustainable weddings, at least when it comes to wedding dresses. There is a growing tendency to look for versatile dresses, the main purpose of which for many brides is to show off different looks during the wedding day, while for others the aim is to use pieces of the model in future situations. Overall, it was concluded that the behaviors adopted do not yet contribute significantly to the sustainability of bridal fashion in Portugal.
Description
Keywords
Bridalwear Vestido de noiva Sustentabilidade Casamento Simbologia Personalização Versatilidade Moda sustentável Portugal Wedding dress Sustainability Wedding Symbology Personalization Versatility Sustainable fashion
Pedagogical Context
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CC License
Without CC licence