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Percursos de moda : do impresso ao digital
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Com o aparecimento da Web 2.0, o funcionamento das redações das revistas de Moda sofreu alterações profundas. A entrada dos blogues na vida dos consumidores vem oferecer uma forma fácil e acessível de acompanhar as novas tendências à medida que estas vão surgindo. Assiste-se a uma explosão de blogues denominados de street style, em que os fashion bloggers expõem o seu estilo pessoal, defendem a ideia de um estilo inimitável que não tem, obrigatoriamente, de seguir as tendências. Este fenómeno atrai a atenção não só de milhares de seguidores mas também das marcas. A presente dissertação incide sobre a questão da utilização dos blogues de Moda na imprensa tradicional portuguesa, ambicionando compreender de que forma os blogues de Moda passam a ser parte integrante da cultura de Moda em Portugal. A investigação é constituída por duas partes. A primeira corresponde ao enquadramento teórico, sustentado na leitura e consulta de artigos e ensaios de autores credíveis que estudam o fenómeno da Moda. A segunda corresponde ao trabalho empírico que consistiu na análise de conteúdo de cinco revistas de Moda portuguesas, durante dois meses distintos e na realização de seis entrevistas semidiretivas a profissionais da indústria de Moda com experiencia relevante na área em estudo. As principais conclusões mostram que numa fase inicial, as revistas de Moda portuguesas não foram recetivas às novas ferramentas online mas com o aumento do tempo despendido online pelos consumidores foram obrigadas a adaptar-se. A Internet aumentou a produtividade do jornalista, criou um novo tipo de jornalismo, com um formato diferente e regras próprias – o jornalismo online, e criou novos desafios às publicações impressas, principalmente ao nível da seleção de conteúdos. Além das alterações impostas pelo digital, a internet trouxe um novo grupo profissional, os bloguers que são também estudados nesta dissertação.
With the arrival of the Web 2.0, the role of the newsrooms in fashion magazines have experienced profound changes. The entrance of the blogs in consumer’s lives has come to offer an easy and affordable way to keep up with the new fashion trends as they emerge. We are now witnessing an explosion of the street style blogs, in which fashion bloggers expose their personal style and support their idea of an inimitable style that does not necessarily follow the usual trends. This phenomenon attracts the attention not only of thousands of followers but also of the brands. This thesis focuses on the use of fashion blogs content on Portuguese traditional fashion press, aiming to understand how fashion blogs become an integral part of the fashion culture in Portugal. The research consists of two parts: the first one concerns to the theoretical framework, based on the reading of articles and essays by credible authors who study the fashion phenomenon; the second one is related to the empirical work that consisted on the analysis of five Portuguese fashion magazines, during two separated months and in conducting six semi-directives interviews to fashion industry professionals with relevant experience in this specific area. The key findings show us that, at an early stage, Portuguese fashion magazines were not receptive to this new online tool but, as technological developments took over and time spent online increased, they were forced to adapt. Internet has increased the productivity of journalists, created a new type of journalism, with a different format and its own rules – the online journalism. It has also created new challenges to the printed media, especially regarding content selection. In addition to the changes imposed by the digital, Internet brought a new professional group – bloggers – which are also studied in this dissertation.
With the arrival of the Web 2.0, the role of the newsrooms in fashion magazines have experienced profound changes. The entrance of the blogs in consumer’s lives has come to offer an easy and affordable way to keep up with the new fashion trends as they emerge. We are now witnessing an explosion of the street style blogs, in which fashion bloggers expose their personal style and support their idea of an inimitable style that does not necessarily follow the usual trends. This phenomenon attracts the attention not only of thousands of followers but also of the brands. This thesis focuses on the use of fashion blogs content on Portuguese traditional fashion press, aiming to understand how fashion blogs become an integral part of the fashion culture in Portugal. The research consists of two parts: the first one concerns to the theoretical framework, based on the reading of articles and essays by credible authors who study the fashion phenomenon; the second one is related to the empirical work that consisted on the analysis of five Portuguese fashion magazines, during two separated months and in conducting six semi-directives interviews to fashion industry professionals with relevant experience in this specific area. The key findings show us that, at an early stage, Portuguese fashion magazines were not receptive to this new online tool but, as technological developments took over and time spent online increased, they were forced to adapt. Internet has increased the productivity of journalists, created a new type of journalism, with a different format and its own rules – the online journalism. It has also created new challenges to the printed media, especially regarding content selection. In addition to the changes imposed by the digital, Internet brought a new professional group – bloggers – which are also studied in this dissertation.
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Moda Jornalismo de moda Imprensa Blogues Ferramentas Publicidade Fashion Fashion journalism Press Blogs Tools Advertising