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DNA-based authentication of alternative plant fibres in textiles

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Introduction: Alternative plant fibres such as Cannabis sativa L. (hemp), Ananas comosus (PALF), and Musa textilis (abaca) are being increasingly recognised for their lower environmental impact compared to traditional fibres like Gossypium hirsutum (cotton) and Linum usitatissimum (flax). These fibres are renewable, biodegradable, and require fewer resources, making them promising solutions for eco-friendly textiles. However, ensuring accurate labelling and traceability remains a challenge. This study explores a DNA-based approach for identifying and distinguishing these fibres, supporting transparency, consumer trust, and sustainable practices across the textile value chain. Objectives: Develop a DNA-based tool capable of identifying and differentiating emerging fibres - hemp, banana, and pineapple - in the textile industry. To test the method's applicability in processed and chemically treated textiles. Conclusion and future work: The developed primers demonstrated high species specificity with no cross-reactivity; DNA-based identification was successful in early and intermediate textile stages, even in cotton blends; Detection failed in the final product, likely due to DNA degradation from industrial processing; Future work will focus on applying more sensitive techniques to enable traceability in finished.

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Pereira de Sousa, S., Vasconcelos, M. W., & Silva, M. N. D. (2025). DNA-based authentication of alternative plant fibres in textiles. 1-1. Poster session presented at Autex 2025 World Conference, Dresden, Germany.

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