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Advisor(s)
Abstract(s)
Nos últimos vinte anos, o poder de compra da classe média aumentou, a internet revolucionou totalmente as operações das empresas, e os líderes de mercado ocuparam os seis cantos do mundo, questionando assim um dos códigos fundamentais do luxo – a exclusividade. As marcas de luxo querem crescer e atingir níveis mais altos de rentabilidade, mas como mantêm o seu encanto baseado na exclusividade e raridade? O objetivo desta dissertação é entender como as marcas de luxo gerem a tensão entre o crescimento e a exclusividade, fonte de desejo e sonho.
Através de um caso de estudo comparativo, analisei quatro empresas: LVMH, o grupo de luxo líder, duas das mais icónicas marcas francesas, Christian Dior S.A. e Cartier, e uma marca espanhola com alto potencial de crescimento, Loewe. Entrevistas, ficheiros de empresas, artigos e outras fontes disponíveis, foram as principais fontes de dados.
Os meus resultados sugerem quatro mecanismos para gerir a tensão: I- Implementação de estratégias digitais e de retalho, II- Distinção dos consumidores em aspiracionais ou elitistas, para adaptar as estratégias de gestão da tensão a cada cliente. III- Manutenção de linhas de design coerentes e dos produtos icónicos para um crescimento constante. IV- Manutenção das estratégias de gestão da tensão ao nível das marcas e dos seus conglomerados. Adicionalmente a minha pesquisa acrescenta valor à literatura, através da ilustração dos mecanismos com estratégias específicas e exemplos correspondentes das marcas.
In the past twenty years, middle class purchase power increased, internet totally revolutionized companies’ operations, and market leaders soon took over all six corners of the world, questioning one of luxury’s core code - exclusivity. Luxury brands want to grow, and reach higher levels of profitability, but how do they keep their essence based on exclusivity and rarity? The purpose of this research is to understand how luxury brands can manage the tension between growth and exclusivity, source of desirability and dream. Drawing on a comparative case-study, I analyzed four brands: LVMH, the luxury group leader, two of the most iconic and renown French brands Christian Dior S.A. and Cartier, and a Spanish brand with high growth potential, Loewe. Interviews, company files, website articles and other available sources, were the main sources of data. My findings suggest four mechanisms to manage the tension: I- Implementing digital and retail strategies, II- Distinguish the different types of consumers to adapt and target tension management strategies, III- Keeping an iconic and design coherence for steady growth, IV- Keeping the management of the tension at the brand and conglomerate level. Additionally, my research adds value to the literature on the tension by illustrating the mechanisms with specific strategies and correspondent brands’ examples.
In the past twenty years, middle class purchase power increased, internet totally revolutionized companies’ operations, and market leaders soon took over all six corners of the world, questioning one of luxury’s core code - exclusivity. Luxury brands want to grow, and reach higher levels of profitability, but how do they keep their essence based on exclusivity and rarity? The purpose of this research is to understand how luxury brands can manage the tension between growth and exclusivity, source of desirability and dream. Drawing on a comparative case-study, I analyzed four brands: LVMH, the luxury group leader, two of the most iconic and renown French brands Christian Dior S.A. and Cartier, and a Spanish brand with high growth potential, Loewe. Interviews, company files, website articles and other available sources, were the main sources of data. My findings suggest four mechanisms to manage the tension: I- Implementing digital and retail strategies, II- Distinguish the different types of consumers to adapt and target tension management strategies, III- Keeping an iconic and design coherence for steady growth, IV- Keeping the management of the tension at the brand and conglomerate level. Additionally, my research adds value to the literature on the tension by illustrating the mechanisms with specific strategies and correspondent brands’ examples.
Description
Keywords
Luxo Crescimento Exclusividade Desejo Raridade Elite Luxury Growth Exclusivity Desirability Rarity