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Abstract(s)
A procura pela utilização de polímeros naturais no desenvolvimento de formulações na indústria cosmética, tem vindo a ser um tema cada vez mais emergente. A elevada quantidade de resíduos gerados no desenvolvimento de um produto é um parâmetro importante e que põe em causa as métricas verdes de sustentabilidade associadas aos processos. Deste modo, a comunidade científica tem-se focado no desenvolvimento de produtos sustentáveis, biodegradáveis e biocompatíveis, que possam contribuir de forma significativa para a redução da produção de resíduos e subprodutos, assentando-se numa economia circular e sustentável. Polímeros como a celulose e o quitosano são atualmente amplamente usados para aplicações das mais diversas áreas, desde a indústria alimentar à indústria cosmética. Deste modo, e de forma a contribuir para uma indústria mais ecológica, neste estágio, desenvolvido numa parceria entre a Universidade Católica Portuguesa e a empresa Amyris®, foram realizados três projetos. O primeiro consistiu no desenvolvimento de micropartículas com base em celulose (microbeads) com ação exfoliante; o segundo na formulação de um produto capilar sustentável à base de quitosano e celulose que permitisse a moldagem, aumento da resistência e tratamento das fibras capilares; e o terceiro no desenvolvimento de um ingrediente passível de ser incorporado numa formulação cosmética, centrado na utilização de celulose quaternizada, como percursora do aumento da aderência da formulação às fibras capilares. Para os três projetos, foram realizadas caracterizações físico-químicas dos produtos, bem como análises das métricas verdes, que incluíram análise de custo, fator ambiental (E-Fator) e intensidade de massa do produto (PMI). Os resultados das micropartículas obtidas demonstraram que as partículas com banho de coagulação em água e ácido cítrico foram as de mais fácil obtenção e mais económicas, para além de apresentarem um formato irregular e tamanho na ordem dos mícron, parâmetros importantes para a sua utilização como exfoliante facial ou corporal. Para além disso, com o teste de coloração, observou-se que não ocorreu transferência de cor das micropartículas coradas para o creme base testado. O produto capilar à base de quitosano foi desenvolvido com sucesso, tendo sido obtido um produto final homogéneo que conferiu resistência e elasticidade às fibras capilares, assim como a reestruturação dos danos cuticulares. Por fim, a formulação do ingrediente à base de celulose quaternizada não mostrou os resultados esperados nos ensaios preliminares obtidos, o que demonstra a necessidade de otimização no processo de funcionalização química da celulose.
The demand for the use of natural polymers in the development of cosmetic formulations has become an increasingly emerging theme. The high quantity of waste generated in the development of a product puts into question the green metrics of sustainability associated to the processes. Thus, it is important to search and develop sustainable, biodegradable and biocompatible products, which contribute significantly to the reduction of waste production and by-products, based on a circular and sustainable economy. Polymers such as cellulose and chitosan are currently used for applications in the most diverse areas, from the food industry to the cosmetics industry. Thus, and in order to contribute to a more ecological industry, in this internship, developed in a partnership between the Universidade Católica Portuguesa and the Amyris® company, three projects were carried out. The first consisted in the development of cellulose-based microparticles (microbeads) with exfoliating action; the second in the formulation of a sustainable hair product based on chitosan and cellulose that allowed moulding, increased resistance and treatment of hair fibres; and the third in the development of an ingredient that could be incorporated into a cosmetic formulation, focusing on the use of quaternized cellulose, as a precursor to increase adhesion of the formulation to hair fibres. For all three projects, physicochemical product characterizations were performed, as well as green metrics analysis, which included cost analysis, environmental factor (E-Factor) and product mass intensity (PMI). The results of the microparticles obtained showed that the particles with coagulation bath in water and citric acid were the easiest to obtain and the most economical, besides presenting an irregular shape and size in the order of microns, important parameters for its use as facial or body exfoliant. Furthermore, with the colouring test, it was observed that there was no colour transference from the coloured microparticles to the base cream tested. The chitosan-based hair product was successfully developed, and a homogeneous final product was obtained that conferred strength and elasticity to the hair fibres, as well as restructuring cuticular damage. Finally, the formulation of the ingredient based on quaternized cellulose did not show the expected results in the preliminary tests obtained, which demonstrates the need for optimization in the process of chemical functionalization of cellulose.
The demand for the use of natural polymers in the development of cosmetic formulations has become an increasingly emerging theme. The high quantity of waste generated in the development of a product puts into question the green metrics of sustainability associated to the processes. Thus, it is important to search and develop sustainable, biodegradable and biocompatible products, which contribute significantly to the reduction of waste production and by-products, based on a circular and sustainable economy. Polymers such as cellulose and chitosan are currently used for applications in the most diverse areas, from the food industry to the cosmetics industry. Thus, and in order to contribute to a more ecological industry, in this internship, developed in a partnership between the Universidade Católica Portuguesa and the Amyris® company, three projects were carried out. The first consisted in the development of cellulose-based microparticles (microbeads) with exfoliating action; the second in the formulation of a sustainable hair product based on chitosan and cellulose that allowed moulding, increased resistance and treatment of hair fibres; and the third in the development of an ingredient that could be incorporated into a cosmetic formulation, focusing on the use of quaternized cellulose, as a precursor to increase adhesion of the formulation to hair fibres. For all three projects, physicochemical product characterizations were performed, as well as green metrics analysis, which included cost analysis, environmental factor (E-Factor) and product mass intensity (PMI). The results of the microparticles obtained showed that the particles with coagulation bath in water and citric acid were the easiest to obtain and the most economical, besides presenting an irregular shape and size in the order of microns, important parameters for its use as facial or body exfoliant. Furthermore, with the colouring test, it was observed that there was no colour transference from the coloured microparticles to the base cream tested. The chitosan-based hair product was successfully developed, and a homogeneous final product was obtained that conferred strength and elasticity to the hair fibres, as well as restructuring cuticular damage. Finally, the formulation of the ingredient based on quaternized cellulose did not show the expected results in the preliminary tests obtained, which demonstrates the need for optimization in the process of chemical functionalization of cellulose.
Description
Keywords
Celulose Sustentabilidade Biopolímeros Fibra capilar Micropartículas Cellulose Sustainability Biopolymers Hair fiber Microparticles