Percorrer por autor "Sousa, Sofia Pereira de"
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- Innovative DNA profiling for hemp fibre authentication in textilesPublication . Sousa, Sofia Pereira de; Silva, Marta Nunes da; Vasconcelos, Marta W.Hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) is a highly versatile and sustainable plant species that has gained increasing attention due to its wide range of industrial applications, particularly in textiles. Known for its strength, durability, and eco-friendly properties, hemp fibres are commonly used in clothing, furnishings, and various industrial products. However, with the rapid expansion of the hemp textile industry, there is an urgent need for robust methods to verify the authenticity of hemp-containing products. Accurate product labelling and compliance with legal standards are essential to maintaining consumer confidence and regulatory oversight. Traditional fibre identification methods, such as microscopic and chemical analyses, often do not differentiate hemp from similar plant fibres, such as flax or cotton, especially in processed textiles. Consequently, molecular biology techniques, specifically DNA-based methods, have emerged as a promising alternative to ensure the traceability and authentication of hemp fibres in textiles. This project aimed to develop a DNA-based tool for identifying alternative fibres in textile raw materials and apparel. This molecular approach offers a reliable solution for fibre authentication and traceability. The textile matrices analysed included fibres and yarns made from hemp, pineapple, banana, flax, and cotton. The DNA extraction protocol was optimised, and the primers used were designed by Thichak et al. PCR amplification was successful across multiple hemp samples, including those with different finishes (biological and mechanical), untreated hemp fibres, and yarns composed of 90% lyocell and 10% hemp. This study confirms the efficacy of these molecular tools for distinguishing hemp from other plant fibres in processed textiles, highlighting the importance of DNA-based methods for fibre authentication in the textile industry. Furthermore, as sustainability and transparency become increasingly important in global markets, this method represents a crucial advance in accurately identifying hem textiles, enhancing trust and integrity in the supply chain.
- Weaving the future: the role of novel fibres and molecular traceability in circular textilesPublication . Sousa, Sofia Pereira de; Silva, Marta Nunes da; Braga, Carlos; Vasconcelos, Marta W.The textile sector provides essential goods, yet it remains environmentally and socially intensive, driven by high water use, pesticide-dependent monocropping, chemical pollution during processing, and growing waste streams. This review examines credible pathways to sustainability by integrating emerging plant-based fibres from hemp, abaca, stinging nettle, and pineapple leaf fibre. These underutilised crops combine favourable agronomic profiles with competitive mechanical performance and are gaining momentum as the demand for demonstrably sustainable textiles increases. However, conventional fibre identification methods, including microscopy and spectroscopy, often lose reliability after wet processing and in blended fabrics, creating opportunities for mislabelling, greenwashing, and weak certification. We synthesise how advanced molecular approaches, including DNA fingerprinting, species-specific assays, and metagenomic tools, can support the authentication of fibre identity and provenance and enable linkage to Digital Product Passports. We also critically assess environmental Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) and social assessment frameworks, including S-LCA and SO-LCA, as complementary methodologies to quantify climate burden, water use, labour conditions, and supply chain risks. We argue that aligning fibre innovation with molecular traceability and harmonised life cycle evidence is essential to replace generic sustainability claims with verifiable metrics, strengthen policy and certification, and accelerate transparent, circular, and socially responsible textile value chains. Key research priorities include validated marker panels and reference libraries for non-cotton fibres, expanded region-specific LCA inventories and end-of-life scenarios, scalable fibre-to-fibre recycling routes, and practical operationalisation of SO-LCA across diverse enterprises.